The morning sun filters through wisps of mountain mist as I sit on my cabin’s wooden deck, sipping fresh herbal tea from the garden below. At 2,500 meters above sea level, nestled in Mexico’s Sierra Madre mountains, Refugio Terraza de la Tierra feels like a secret sanctuary floating above the clouds.
As my taxi wound down the steep mountain path from the highway, the first glimpse of adobe buildings terraced into the mountainside made my heart skip. Little did I know this was just the beginning of an experience that would change my perspective on sustainable mountain living.
After spending three unforgettable days at this eco-retreat in San José del Pacífico, Oaxaca, I’m excited to share every detail of my stay with you. I’ll take you through my entire journey at this unique retreat, from the challenging trek to reception to the magical moments by the crackling fireplace each evening.
Location and Getting There
Hidden away in the mountains of Oaxaca, Refugio Terraza de la Tierra sits about a mile from the small town of San José del Pacífico. Getting here requires some planning and preparation, but the reward is worth every step of the journey.
From Oaxaca City, I took a minivan (called a colectivo) that runs every 30 minutes. The 3.5-hour drive through winding mountain roads offered spectacular views, though I recommend taking motion sickness medication if you’re sensitive to curves.
The real adventure begins when you reach the highway drop-off point. Here’s my first crucial tip: pack light and bring a backpack instead of rolling luggage. The descent from the highway to reception takes about 10-15 minutes on a steep, rocky path. My small wheeled suitcase was a terrible choice, bouncing precariously over rocks and making the walk much harder than necessary.
For those driving, there’s a parking area about 5 minutes from reception. However, the access road is quite rough. If you’re renting a car, choose one with good ground clearance – preferably a 4×4. During my stay, I saw several guests arrive in regular cars, and they all had some challenging moments on the uneven terrain.
You can also take a tuk-tuk from San José del Pacífico to the retreat for about 35 pesos. This option saves you the walk from the highway, though you’ll still need to trek down to reception from the parking area. The property spans roughly 200 acres of pristine mountainside, so expect to do plenty of walking during your stay.
First Impressions and Check-in
My first sight of the property took my breath away – both literally from the steep walk and figuratively from the sheer beauty. Adobe buildings with thatched roofs peek out from terraced gardens, all perfectly integrated into the mountain landscape. The morning clouds were still lingering when I arrived, creating an ethereal atmosphere as they drifted between the buildings.
The reception area doubles as the main dining room, with large windows offering panoramic mountain views. Despite my somewhat disheveled arrival (that path is no joke!), the staff welcomed me warmly. While most speak limited English, their genuine smiles and helpful gestures bridged any language gaps. I quickly learned that having Google Translate handy on my phone would be essential during my stay.
Check-in was refreshingly simple and personal. Instead of standing at a counter filling out forms, I sat at a wooden table while sipping fresh mint tea from the garden. The staff member explained the meal times, showed me a trail map, and answered my questions about activities. There’s no electronic key card here – just a simple metal key attached to a wooden tag.
The Rooms: Rustic Comfort
My room, Number 5, sat higher up the mountain from reception. The 5-minute uphill walk might seem challenging at first, but it became easier each time – though I won’t pretend I didn’t get a bit winded. The reward? Absolutely stunning views and complete tranquility.
The room itself epitomized rustic comfort. A queen-sized bed downstairs and two twins in a cozy loft area provided plenty of space. While the mattress was firmer than I’m used to, the pile of warm blankets made for comfortable nights in the cool mountain air. The bathroom was basic but clean, with sometimes-hot-sometimes-warm water that took a few minutes to heat up.
Perhaps the most magical feature was the fireplace. Each evening around sunset, staff members would quietly arrive to build and light a fire. This wasn’t just for ambiance – at 2,500 meters elevation, nights get surprisingly cold even in warm seasons. I spent hours reading by the firelight, listening to the crackle of burning wood and the symphony of night insects outside.
Food and Dining
The retreat’s restaurant serves exclusively vegetarian and vegan food, with much of the produce coming directly from their extensive on-site garden. As someone who usually includes meat in my diet, I was surprised by how satisfying and flavorful the meals were. Breakfast might include fresh bread, homemade preserves, local fruits, and warm porridge, while dinner often featured hearty soups, grains, and creative vegetable dishes.
Since the retreat is relatively isolated, you’ll likely eat most meals here unless you make the trek into San José del Pacífico. The set menu changes daily, though certain items like Danish crispbread appear regularly. After three days, I did start craving more variety, so one evening I hiked up to town for dinner at a small local restaurant – a yellow building near the tattoo shop that served delicious Mexican dishes at a fraction of the retreat’s prices.
The dining room itself adds to the experience, with its communal tables encouraging conversation with other guests. Large windows frame the mountain views, and in the mornings, you can watch hummingbirds darting between flowers while enjoying your breakfast. One minor note: bring cash, as credit cards aren’t accepted for meals or extra charges.
Activities and Facilities
The retreat offers several activities that make the most of its mountain setting. During my stay, I took a morning yoga class in their beautiful studio – a pyramidal structure with floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the mountains. The instructor, Gina, led a gentle but invigorating session perfect for all skill levels. The studio’s peaceful energy, combined with the morning mountain mist, created an unforgettable practice.
One of the highlights was hiking to the property’s waterfalls. The main trail takes about 45 minutes down and an hour back up. While moderately challenging, the path is well-marked and maintained. The forest views along the way are stunning, especially when clouds roll in, creating a mystical atmosphere. Make sure to bring water and wear proper hiking shoes – the terrain can be slippery.
The retreat also offers horseback riding and a traditional temazcal (Mexican sweat lodge) experience. While I didn’t try the horseback riding, I did spot the horses grazing peacefully near the fruit trees. The sauna, though basic, provided a welcome respite after hiking. Just note that the outdoor shower by the sauna wasn’t working during my visit.
The Natural Setting and Sustainability
The retreat’s commitment to sustainability impressed me throughout my stay. Solar panels provide electricity (though it can be limited – my travel kettle actually overwhelmed the system!), and they maintain a strict no-plastic policy. The extensive organic garden supplies most of their produce, and they use local, natural materials in all their buildings.
Weather at this altitude changes frequently – I counted nine distinct weather patterns in one day. Mornings often start clear and sunny, perfect for yoga or hiking. Clouds typically roll in by afternoon, creating dramatic views but also making it chilly. The variability adds to the magic of the place, though it means you should pack layers and rain gear regardless of season.
The property’s natural beauty reveals itself in countless small details: the fruit trees attracting colorful birds, the bee boxes tucked discretely along the paths, the vegetable gardens terraced into the mountainside. Even the building materials – adobe, wood, and thatch – blend seamlessly with the natural surroundings.
Security and Practical Considerations
While the retreat feels incredibly safe, its isolated location means taking some basic precautions. The upper rooms, being further from the main areas, can feel quite remote after dark. Bring a flashlight or headlamp for evening walks to and from dinner. The paths have minimal lighting to preserve the natural setting.
The Wi-Fi situation deserves special mention. Connection is sporadic at best, completely absent at worst. Download any essential content before arrival, and consider this an opportunity to disconnect. The dim lighting in rooms also makes reading physical books challenging – I found my e-reader’s backlight essential.
If you’re considering a stay here, keep these tips in mind:
- Pack a backpack rather than wheeled luggage
- Bring layers for variable weather
- Learn basic Spanish phrases or download Google Translate offline
- Carry cash for meals and extras
- Download entertainment content before arrival
- Pack a flashlight and comfortable walking shoes
Final Thoughts
My three days at Refugio Terraza de la Tierra left me with a deep appreciation for this unique mountain sanctuary. Despite minor inconveniences – the sometimes-warm showers, erratic Wi-Fi, and challenging access – the breathtaking setting, thoughtful sustainability practices, and peaceful atmosphere create an experience that stays with you long after leaving.
This isn’t a place for luxury seekers or those who need constant connectivity. But if you’re looking to disconnect from daily pressures and reconnect with nature, few places offer such a perfect setting. The combination of mountain mists, garden-fresh meals, crackling fireplaces, and starlit nights creates something truly special.
For me, the magic of Refugio lies in its simplicity and authenticity. From the handmade soap in the bathrooms to the staff lighting your evening fire, every detail reflects genuine care for guests and respect for the environment. My stay here shifted my perspective on what luxury can mean – sometimes, it’s as simple as watching clouds drift through mountain valleys while sipping tea from herbs grown steps from your door.
